What To Watch For: Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025

Andiamo, Milano!
And we are off to the next fashion stop! Fresh from the runways of New York and London, designers will now be heading into the world’s fashion and design capital taking their new Spring/Summer 2025 collection.

Here, we round up everything you need to know from the new Milan season. Just as captivating as the designs that will hit the runway, this season will give new talents space to shine alongside major brands.

A day added to the schedule in Milan Fashion Week for the Spring/Summer 2025 season, beginning on Tuesday afternoon with a show from Fiorucci before giving way to Fendi, Marni, Alberta Ferretti and Iceberg.

The opening day promises to be packed, featuring shows by Twinset, Maryling, and Redemption, which marks its 10th anniversary this season. The day will wrap up with an exciting after-party hosted by Iceberg, celebrating its 50th anniversary.

But here’s a twist: this Spring/Summer 2025 runway lineup has seen a shift, with eight designers bowing out and eight fresh faces joining, including some returning favorites and new talent.

The new edition of Fashion Week which runs until September 23 will include 173 appointments with 57 physical shows, 8 digital ones, 69 presentations, 6 presentations under appointment and 33 events.

However, some key brands are changing things up like Giorgio Armani who has decamped to New York for a season. Next absent from this season’s schedule is Tom Ford – after the departure of creative director Peter Hawkings earlier this month. The brand is now preparing for the highly anticipated debut of new creative director Haider Ackermann for Fall/Winter 2025.

Blumarine is also missing from the schedule this season, with David Koma set to debut as creative director next season. Also no longer on the catwalk is Sagaboi, the London label of Trinidad-born Geoff K. Cooper, which debuted last season in Milan.

This time, four labels switched to video presentation format – MSGM, Chiara Boni, Maxivive, the label run by Nigerian Papa Oyeyemi, and DSquared2 after its energetic men’s show earlier this year.

But there’s more…

The season 2025 will welcome a mix of fresh talent and some familiar faces. Vietnamese designer Phan Dang Hoang and Chiccomao by Chinese designer Mao Baobao will make their first appearance on the Milan runway. A number of young labels like Federico Cina, The Attico, Andreadamo, and well-established Luisa Beccaria are returning after a few seasons away.

Above all, Laura Biagiotti will be celebrating her 50th anniversary with a live show after going digital.

Milan will host the big names again, starting with Roberto Cavalli, Etro, and Boss on Wednesday, September 18. The excitement continues with Max Mara, Prada, and Moschino on Thursday, September 19. Tod’s, Gucci, Missoni, and Versace will be on Friday, September 20, and Ferragamo, Dolce & Gabbana, and Bottega Veneta will be on Saturday, September 21.

The event wraps up on September 23 with a day of virtual shows featuring eight collections, including names like Defaïence by Nicola Bacchilega, Francesco Murano, Jacob Cohën, Rè Shui’, and Viapiave33. Meanwhile, in its Fashion Hub, the Chambre de la mode will host emerging fashion houses and projects dedicated to international design from Korea to Latin America and China.

After a string of debuts for AW24, (MFW) SS25 is the season for sophomores.

• First, Adrian Appiolaza will reveal his second womenswear collection for Moschino after a successful menswear debut in June.
• Matteo Tamburini will follow with his second collection for Tod’s after a warm reception for his first collection.
• Next, Simone Bellotti’s third collection for Bally is also the most awaited and his first since the brand’s recent acquisition by U.S. investment firm Regent.

Italian editors are eager to see rising stars Marco Rambaldi and Del Core showcase their collections on Wednesday. Meanwhile, Andreādamo and Susan Fang will present their collections on Sunday morning.

Additionally, there’s excitement around Matthieu Blazy’s vision for Bottega Veneta, with many curious to see where he takes the brand for the Spring/Summer 2025 season. MM6 and Diesel, popular with Ssense customers, are also on the radar for what’s next from these brands.

But people, listen up, you might be thinking..

Will We See Any Newer Trends? Or No Trends At All?

Tiziana Cardini, a Vogue Runway contributor adds that Milan may not be the launch pad regarding trends. Trends are not born in Milan, [they] are born in London, probably in Paris,” she says. “The big brands here go their own way. Milan is more about a consistency that comes from the past.”

Brigitte Chartrand, Vice President of Womenswear at SSENSE says, “We’re looking for pieces that are playful but feminine; think contrasting materials, layering, sheerness, embroidery, and embellishments. On the flip side, we’re also looking for that stronger, empowering tomboy look and hoping to see a lot of neckties.”

And so are we! Consider this just a starter—there’s plenty more to keep an eye on.

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